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Vintage 1970 Rolex 1680 Red Submariner
$32,600
$39,000
-16%
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Why Choose Louis Martin Jewelers

Hand-Picked

Our team at Louis Martin Jewelers works hard to curate an exceptional collection of vintage Rolex timepieces from around the world, always making sure every watch meets our standards of authenticity and quality. From iconic Submariners and GMT-Masters to classic Datejusts and rare Princes, our selection caters to dedicated collectors and first-time Rolex buyers alike.

40+ Years of Rolex Expertise

With more than four decades specializing in vintage watches, Louis Martin Jewelers offers a generation of knowledge on reference numbers, production variations, and market values. Our long-standing history in New York City has allowed us to handle thousands of vintage Rolex timepieces. Giving experience for you to acquire an authentic piece of horological history.

Rolex Authentication Process

Our commitment to Rolex authenticity is a thorough verification process that examines movement calibers, serial numbers, case proportions, bracelet codes, dial typography, and luminous materials appropriate to each era. This verifies every vintage Rolex in our collection represents a genuine piece of watchmaking heritage that will retain its value.

Our Complete Vintage Rolex Buyer's Guide

Key points about vintage Rolex watches:

  • Unmatched precision engineering and durability
  • Historical significance from groundbreaking innovations
  • Strong investment potential with consistent appreciation
  • Golden age production from 1950s through 1980s
  • Authenticated by our vintage watch experts at Louis Martin Jewelers
Read more about brief vintage Rolex history and our authentication process Plus

Rolex stands as the undisputed leader in luxury watchmaking, known worldwide for precision engineering, durability, and timeless design. The vintage Rolex market offers collectors both historical significance and investment potential. From the groundbreaking Oyster case introduced in 1926 to the self-winding Perpetual movements, vintage Rolex watches provide a direct connection to pivotal moments in watchmaking history.

At Louis Martin Jewelers, we specialize in all vintage watches, including vintage Rolex watches. Each Rolex in our inventory has been authenticated by our in-house experts who verify every component against period-correct specifications to confirm absolute authenticity.

Disclosure: As with all second-hand watches, vintage and second-hand Rolexes cannot be 100% guaranteed authentic unless verified by Rolex themselves or has certified documentation from original purchase.

Authentication of Vintage Rolex Watches

Why our authentication matters:

  • Every Rolex undergoes our comprehensive verification process
  • 40+ years of specialized authentication expertise
  • Trained experts with extensive Rolex-specific knowledge
  • Meticulous inspection of all components and features
  • Complete peace of mind with your vintage purchase

Our Thorough Authentication Process

Authentication is the single most important concern when collecting vintage Rolex timepieces. At Louis Martin Jewelers, protecting our clients from increasingly sophisticated counterfeits is our top priority. Every vintage Rolex we offer undergoes a rigorous multi-point authentication process by our experts:
Serial Number Verification Plus
  • Examination of the unique 4-8 character serial number
  • Verification of proper placement based on production era (behind bracelet at 6 o'clock position for pre-2005 models, rehaut engraving for post-2008 models)
  • Assessment of engraving quality (authentic Rolex engravings are precise and crisp)
Case and Exterior Examination Plus
  • Logo assessment: Inspection of the crown logo placement and the tiny etched crown near the 6 o'clock position (present on models from 2002 onwards)
  • Case back examination: Confirmation of the proper metal case back without engravings (except on rare exhibition models)
  • Bezel inspection: Verification of precise machining and correct font/markings
  • Crown and tube assessment: Checking for proper threading and engagement
Movement Analysis Plus
  • Movement type verification: Almost all genuine Rolex watches feature mechanical movements
  • Seconds hand motion assessment: Verification of the smooth sweeping motion (not ticking) characteristic of genuine Rolex watches
  • Sound testing: Confirmation of the silent operation of the movement (counterfeit watches often make audible ticking sounds)
  • Caliber inspection: Assessment of movement finishing and architecture
Dial and Hands Authentication Plus
  • Cyclops magnification test: Verifying the date window magnifies exactly 2.5x as on authentic Rolex models
  • Dial printing quality: Examining font precision, spacing, and color consistency
  • Luminous material assessment: Verification of correct luminous compound based on production era
  • Hand style and finishing: Confirmation of correct style, length, and finishing for the specific reference
Material Quality Assessment Plus
  • Weight verification: Assessing the substantial weight characteristic of genuine Rolex watches
  • Bracelet link quality: Examining proper construction and finish of links
  • Clasp mechanism inspection: Verification of smooth, precise operation
  • Overall finishing: Assessment of polishing, brushing, and detail work throughout

Investment Value of Vintage Rolex Watches

Key investment factors:

  • Limited historical production numbers
  • Continuously increasing global demand
  • Growing scarcity of original-condition examples
  • Documented appreciation outpacing traditional investments
  • Strong performance particularly in sports models

Understanding Vintage Rolexes As An Investment

Vintage Rolex watches consistently demonstrate exceptional investment performance, often outpacing traditional investment vehicles. This value appreciation stems from multiple factors:
Limited Historical Production Plus

Production numbers for vintage references were significantly lower than today's output. Many desirable references were produced in quantities of just a few thousand pieces annually.

Increasing Global Demand Plus

Growing worldwide interest in luxury watches has created unprecedented demand for pristine vintage examples, with new collector markets emerging continuously. Rolex stands currently as the world's largest watch brand.

Condition Scarcity Plus

Finding preserved examples with original components becomes increasingly difficult each year as watches are serviced, modified, or damaged.

Historical Importance Plus

Many vintage models represent important milestones in both Rolex history and watchmaking more broadly, securing their place in horological history.

Strong Value Appreciation Plus

The strongest value appreciation typically occurs in sports models—particularly the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona—though exceptional examples of the Datejust and Day-Date have also shown impressive performance.

Proven Investment-Grade Vintage Rolex Models

Proper maintenance preserves both the functionality and value of vintage Rolex timepieces:
Submariner Reference 5512 (1959-1978) Plus

With chronometer certification and crown guards, this reference established the modern Submariner design language. Early examples with pointed crown guards and gilt dials are particularly prized.

Daytona Reference 6239 (1963-1969) Plus

The first Rolex model to bear the Daytona name, featuring contrasting subdials and external tachymeter scale. Examples with exotic "Paul Newman" dials represent the pinnacle of vintage Rolex collecting.

GMT-Master Reference 6542 (1954-1959) Plus

The inaugural GMT-Master model featuring a fragile Bakelite bezel and no crown guards. Very few survived with original bezels intact, making complete examples extraordinarily valuable.

Explorer Reference 1016 (1963-1989) Plus

The definitive Explorer model with perfect proportions and exceptional legibility. Early gilt dial variants with glossy surfaces command significant premiums.

Datejust Reference 1601 (1959-1977) Plus

The quintessential Datejust with fluted bezel, available in various metals and dial configurations. Rare color combinations and special retailer-signed dials offer superior investment potential.

Care & Maintenance for Vintage Rolex Watches

Essential care tips:

  • Service vintage Rolex movements every 5-7 years
  • Never assume water resistance on vintage models
  • Wind watches gently and consistently
  • Store in temperature-controlled environments
  • Maintain service documentation for value preservation

Care Guide For Vintage Rolexes

Vintage Rolex watches consistently demonstrate exceptional investment performance, often outpacing traditional investment vehicles. This value appreciation stems from multiple factors:
Servicing Recommendations Plus
  • Vintage Rolex movements benefit from servicing every 5-7 years
  • Earlier models (1950s-1960s) may require more frequent 4-5 year intervals
  • Only use watchmakers experienced with vintage Rolex calibers
  • Request retention of all original parts when possible
  • Always obtain detailed documentation of any service work performed
Water Resistance Considerations Plus
  • Never assume vintage Rolex models maintain their original water resistance
  • Have pressure testing performed annually if exposure to water is anticipated
  • Early Submariner models (pre-1970) should generally avoid water exposure
  • Replace gaskets and seals during regular service intervals
Daily Wearing Guidance Plus
  • Wind manual watches gently to the point of resistance
  • Automatic models benefit from occasional rotation when not worn
  • Avoid setting date complications between 9PM-3AM
  • Use proper winding technique for screw-down crowns to prevent thread damage
Storage Recommendations Plus
  • Store in a temperature-controlled environment (65-75°F)
  • Keep away from strong magnetic fields
  • Consider watch winders for complicated models with calendars
  • Separate watches to prevent bracelet scratching
  • Maintain service records and documentation with the timepiece

Robust case construction with prominent crown guards on sports models

  • Substantial bracelet designs with secure clasps
  • Practical complications including date functions and chronographs

FAQ's About Vintage Rolex Watches

Our FAQ covers the essential details of verifying authenticity, considering an investment, or learning how to properly care for your timepiece.
Contact Us
Authentication & Provenance
How can I verify the authenticity of a vintage Rolex watch? Plus

Authentic vintage Rolex watches can be verified through multiple authentication points:

  1. Serial number verification: Check that the unique 4-8 character serial number is properly placed (behind the bracelet at 6 o'clock on pre-2005 models or on the rehaut for post-2008 models).
  2. Logo examination: Inspect the crown logo for precise placement and quality. Authentic models from 2002 onwards also feature a tiny etched crown on the crystal near the 6 o'clock position, visible only under magnification.
  3. Case back inspection: Genuine Rolex watches have solid metal case backs with no engravings or see-through windows (except for extremely rare exhibition models).
  4. Movement assessment: Authentic Rolex watches have mechanical movements (with very few exceptions) that produce a smooth sweeping seconds hand motion rather than a ticking motion.
  5. Sound test: Hold the watch to your ear - a genuine Rolex should operate silently without audible ticking.
  6. Date magnification: The "Cyclops" date magnifier should enlarge the date by exactly 2.5x and feature pristine optical quality.
  7. Weight check: Genuine Rolex watches use high-quality materials that give them substantial weight compared to counterfeits.

At Louis Martin Jewelers, our expert watchmakers perform all these checks and more during our comprehensive authentication process.

What documentation might accompany a genuine vintage Rolex timepiece? Plus

Original documentation for vintage Rolex watches can include:

  • Warranty certificate with matching serial number
  • Model reference number documentation
  • Original purchase receipt
  • Service history records from authorized dealers
  • Original box and accessories

However, many authentic vintage Rolexes no longer have their complete original documentation due to age. At Louis Martin Jewelers, we carefully evaluate any existing documentation as part of our authentication process, but the absence of papers doesn't automatically indicate a counterfeit. Our experts can authenticate vintage Rolex watches through careful physical examination of the timepiece itself.

How does Louis Martin authenticate vintage Rolex watches? Plus

Our comprehensive authentication process includes:

  • Serial number verification: Examining placement, quality, and format
  • Case and bracelet inspection: Assessing appropriate finish quality and hallmarks
  • Dial inspection: Checking correct font, logo placement, and period-correct details
  • Date magnification verification: Confirming 2.5x magnification on genuine models
  • Crown and case back assessment: Verifying correct design and execution
  • Weight and feel evaluation: Genuine Rolex watches have substantial weight
  • Movement inspection: Verifying correct caliber and finishing
  • Function testing: Ensuring all complications work properly
  • Seconds hand motion assessment: Confirming smooth sweeping (not ticking)
  • Sound testing: Authentic Rolex watches operate silently
  • Component quality verification: Examining finishing details throughout
  • Bracelet and clasp mechanism evaluation: Checking proper construction and operation

Our team has decades of experience authenticating vintage Rolex watches and stays current with the latest information about counterfeit detection techniques.

Investment & Value
Which vintage Rolex models tend to hold their value best? Plus

Historically, vintage Rolex sport models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona have demonstrated the strongest investment performance. Particularly valuable are reference 5513 Submariners from the 1960s-70s, early GMT-Master reference 6542 models, and manual-wind Daytona chronographs. Factors affecting investment value include originality, condition, presence of original box and papers, and production rarity. Conservative estimates show top examples appreciating 8-12% annually over the past decade.

What factors affect the value of vintage Rolex watches? Plus

Key value factors include rarity (limited production references, unusual dial variations), condition (original parts, unpolished cases, minimal bracelet stretch), provenance (famous previous owners, documented history), completeness (original box, papers, accessories), and historical significance (milestone models, transitional references). The vintage Rolex market places particular premium on originality, with unpolished cases often commanding 15-30% higher prices than similar polished examples.

How has the market for vintage Rolex watches changed in recent years? Plus

The vintage Rolex market has seen significant price appreciation over the past decade, with particularly strong growth for sports models. There has been increasing collector emphasis on condition and originality, with premium prices paid for unpolished examples with original components. The market has also become more knowledgeable, with subtle variations in dial text or bezel color commanding substantial premiums. Social media and specialized collector communities have accelerated information sharing and price discovery in the vintage Rolex market.

Care & Maintenance
Frequently asked question Plus

Vintage Rolex watches should typically be serviced every 5-7 years, depending on wear frequency and conditions. However, earlier models from the 1950s-60s may benefit from slightly more frequent servicing intervals of 4-5 years due to their age. Signs that service is needed include decreased power reserve, inaccurate timekeeping, or resistance when setting the time or date. Our in-house watchmakers specialize in vintage Rolex calibers and can provide model-specific maintenance recommendations.

Can vintage Rolex watches be worn daily? Plus

Many vintage Rolex models were designed for everyday use and can still serve as daily timepieces with proper care. Sport models like the Submariner and Explorer are particularly well-suited to regular wear. However, rare or exceptionally valuable pieces may be better reserved for occasional use to preserve their condition and value. Models from the 1970s and later typically offer better durability for daily wear than earlier examples, though all vintage timepieces require appropriate care regardless of wearing frequency.

What special considerations exist for maintaining vintage Rolex timepieces? Plus

Vintage Rolex watches require specialized servicing that preserves original components whenever possible. Water resistance in vintage models is generally not equivalent to modern standards, even with new gaskets. Original dials and hands with luminous material should be handled with extreme care during servicing to preserve their integrity and value. We recommend avoiding extreme temperature changes, magnetic fields, and activities that could subject the watch to strong shocks or vibrations.